With a stickbow - you will be tuning the arrow to the bow- opposite of a compound or wheelbow where you tune the bow to the arrow.

The Importance of a well tuned arrow for traditional bowhunting is critical for shot placement and penetration.


Types of arrow materials:

Wood
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Wood arrows offer the traditional vintage look and feel with the benefit of weight when tuning.


They come in many varieties and tend to have good flex and spine for tuning. They can be a bit harder to find in consistency over aluminum and carbon arrow shafts but luckily there are many custom arrow smiths out there that build and crate some amazing wood shafts. The greatest draw back - (insert pun note!)  is that they are not as durable as carbon or alum shafts. Wood arrows come in many materials, from Cedar, Pine, and spruce to even cane shafts.


Aluminum

Aluminum shafts became very popular through the 70s. They have the advantage of very tight tolerances for straightness and durability and cost effectiveness as well.

In addition, alum shafting comes in many colors and Perma graphic imaging.

Offered in a variety of sizes and options from target shooting to hunting.


Carbon

Carbon arrow popularity has increased greatly since the 80s and 90s and is now likely the most often shot shaft material made and available now!

They are offered with many different options and colors. Carbon arrows tend to be the most durable shaft material available- the only drawback being once an arrow is damaged its shooting life is over. Carbon arrows can splinter of damaged at all, and like other shafts should be inspected closely before shooting to ensure the arrow is not splitting in any way.


What You Will Need For Arrow Tuning

1: Good solid firm target- preferably without a lot of damage - so you can easily see how the arrow is behaving - I like a black garbage bag on a bale of hay with a large back outdoor/indoor and a  5X5 carpet hung behind it to superimpose the arrow in flight.

2:  Marker to indicate your arrow shaft length to cut.

3: Tape to flag a spot to shoot at.

4: Hacksaw or pipe cutter for cutting down shaft- Dremel optional - cautious and careful with carbon.
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​5. Use full length arrows and ensure they have the same weight out front that you will have with your hunting setup. 
    (You will start bare shaft tuning with full length arrows & cutting or adding weight in the tuning process.)


I strongly encourage warming up before tuning your arrows.

Start shooting 10 yards from the target.

You want the point of impact to be the same so set a small spot to shoot at and ensure your release is clean each time.

Work your way back to 20 - more on that after you get a consistent effect from the arrow onto the target.


Hold your bow vertical - shoot three times making sure you're completely consistent each time and do not be in a hurry.

Warm up once you've done that and the arrows are flying well, you'll start moving back further.

You must be consistent in how they are hitting the target.


Breakdown Shooting:

Make sure your bow is vertical when shooting.

Make sure your brace height is set- the fistmele is important for good starting point.

Make sure your nock point is set on the string.

Any silencers, quivers, buttons- install prior to tuning.

Do not use broadheads - you will essentially have a set of wings in front and nothing in back to stabilize the arrow


Make sure that you are repeatable and consistent with your shooting form each time take your time.

How are your arrows hitting and how to read the impact?


Nock right bare shaft tuning knock right means your deflection and spine are a little stiff.
Solution - You will need to increase your point weight slowly or you can increase the insert weight.


Nock Left spine is to weak an arrow.
Solution - Decrease the point weight or cut the shaft and one quarter inch increments or decrease the point or insert weight or build up strike plate out slightly. (toothpick tuning- strike plate)


Do not cut in one half increments – with Carbon arrows cut as small as measurable - ¼ inch at a time. Some Carbons can change spine quickly.


Fletched arrow & Broadhead tuning & Nock high issues:

Without a broadhead if you're grouping to the left, again, it's too stiff an arrow you need to increase your point weight or move the strike plate closer to center.

If you're consistent and grouping to the right with fletched arrows - need to decrease the point weight and cut the shaft in half inch increments. I prefer cutting the shaft down slowly in increments.


If you're experiencing nock high this is a good thing.

If your problem is a nock high -you can adjust your brace height or you go and adjust your knocking point. You can also build up your arrow rest or build it out a bit.

This is a good problem to have versus knock left or knock right.

Remember, when you fletch that arrow it will stabilize small mistakes.


DO NOT shoot and tune bare shaft with broadheads - You're basically putting wings on the front of the arrow without stabilizers at the rear- the feathers being the stabilizers.


Remember carbon arrows are going to be lighter in grains per inch than aluminum arrows and not as dense as wood arrows depending on the spine and deflection and the weight of the bow you're shooting the arrow from this is important to note.


Whatever type of arrow material and design you choose, be patient and take your time.

The more you tune and practice, the easier it becomes and like anything doing it yourself will give you tremendous satisfaction as you get into the world of traditional archery!


Cheers,

Grant
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